How COMME des GARÇONS Homme Plus Became a Force of its Own

Itâ€s a CDG world, and weâ€re just living in it. No matter which niche in sneakers and fashion you claim as your own, Rei Kawakuboâ€s COMME des GARÇONS is as expansive as it is impactful.

The Japanese label, founded by Kawakubo in 1973, is known for its avant-garde designs, radical proportions, and contemporary and traditional references. The Homme Plus line, which takes an even more expressive approach to Kawakuboâ€s already-eloquent design language, is a breath of fresh air for menâ€s fashion from head to toe.

Textures, colors, patterns come alive and dance with the Homme Plus line through Kawakuboâ€s meticulously orchestrated ensemble. Since 1984, Homme Plus has tastefully redefined menswear using unorthodox cuts, eye-catching embellishments, and a range of fabrics that serve as a canvas for the fashion renaissance under the Homme Plus sub-universe.

From the Paris Fashion Week runways to the depths of Reddit, CDGâ€s Homme Plus has taken a life of its own. From the double-breasted superhero-esque capes to jacquard wool pants and pleated trousers, Homme Plus has amassed a following that cherishes each garment like a fresco embedded in a new-age Sicilian chapel of fashion.

Whether through COMME des GARÇONS connoisseurs or newfound lovers of the Homme Plus line, the CDG branch is immense in all things fashion and sneakers. Through its partnership with Nike, the Japanese label and the sportswear giant have tastefully blended the worlds of the rawness that is Homme Plus with some of Nikeâ€s most iconic sneakers.

On the eve of the COMME des GARÇONS x Nike Air Foamposite One release, we take a look at the CDG Homme Plus x Nike footwear that has outdone the rest of the CDG x Nike universe. And yes, that includes the CDG Play x Chuck 70s.

CDG Homme Plus x Nike Dunk High (2017)

 

Before the current boom of the Nike Dunk, CDG reimagined the hardwood classic. Its clear panels paired with premium black leather overlays and minimal branding serve as the perfect centerpiece to any outfit — regardless of how bold or tame you plan on taking it.

CDG Homme Plus x Nike Air Max 180 (2018)

CDG brought back the famed trainer in not just two but three versions as a hot pink served as a foundation for all three colorways. With a muted pink, black, and white altering for the tongue and overlay execution, the CDG x Nike Air Max 180 couldnâ€t be missed — whether on the streets of Paris or the boroughs of New York or under the lights of Los Angeles.

CDG Homme Plus x Nike ACG Air Mowabb (2018)

CDG reinterpreted ACGâ€s iconic Air Mowabb with a fully off-white suede upper over a neoprene bootie. Adding an extra sense of luxury, the pair adds raised suede paneling to give depth to the outdoor silhouette.

The signature ACG branding hit on the ankle collar is subtly replaced with CDGâ€s lettering with a contrasting look that standouts if paying close attention, like most of the Homme Plus designs.

CDG Homme Plus x Nike Air Force 1 Mid (2020)

Though the Air Force 1 Mid isnâ€t typically the go-to sneaker for collaborations, it would only make sense of CDG Homme Plus revamped the Mid into a must-have.

The black and white iteration was built with protruding surplus materials around the Swoosh, heel, strap, toe box, and laces. Rather than using a frayed fabric, the CDG x Nike AF1 Mid didnâ€t hold back on applying excess leather.

CDG Homme Plus x Nike Air Max 95 (2020)

CDG took on the Air Max 95 in a set of three, akin to the Air Max 180 collaboration. Rather than blasting the runner in vibrant pink, the CDG x Nike Air Max 95 opted in for the minimalist approach weâ€ve grown accustomed to as an all-black, all-white, greyscale colorways were unleashed.

The pairs encompassed Kawakuboâ€s signature deconstructed aesthetic as ted with extra foam and raw-hemmed textile reimaged the silhouettes. The pairs also included a suede toe panel, webbed nylon eyelets, and 3M Swoosh branding on the heel — symbolizing the marriage of fashion and function.

CDG Homme Plus x Nike Air Carnivore (2021)

CDGâ€s evident love and appreciation for â€90s silhouettes are best showcased through its most recent collab, with the Air Carnivore embodying that retro spirit.

First seen in 1993, the trainer was upgraded with a fully functional overhaul with a minimalist execution. Mesh and synthetic leather on the upper, a high-cut neoprene sleeve, and adjustable straps substituted the traditional laces and turned CDGâ€s Air Carnivore into a fan favorite.

CDG Homme Plus x Nike Air Foamposite One (2021)

And finally, the latest and arguably the greatest from the Homme Plus collaborative line — the Nike Air Foamposite One. Debuted by the University of Arizonaâ€s Mike Bibby in 1997, designed for Penny Hardaway, and sustained its relevance thanks to the DMV, the Eric Avar design was unlike anything before. Staying true to the shock value of the Foamposite, Kawakubo and Homme Plus took an even more bold approach to the Foamposite with mesmerizing circular designs on the upper and finished off with minimal CDG branding.

Though its $520 price point caused an uproar, itâ€s only a 126% markup from its typical $230 retail value. For comparison, the CDG x Nike AF1 Mid was marked up from $95 to $270 (~184%), and the CDG x Air Carnivore was marked up from $110 to $330 (200%).

Regardless, Homme Plus†reinterpretation of the hardwood classic shouldnâ€t come as a surprise. For years, weâ€ve known that the ceiling is raised after every collaborative effort. If it isnâ€t clear by now, Homme Plus is the epitome of CDGâ€s capabilities as well as the materialization of Rei Kawakuboâ€s ethos and vision. Nothing comes close.

If Kanye West were ever to remix “Devil In a New Dress,” weâ€re sure a “Thatâ€s COMME des GARÇONS Homme Plus, not COMME des GARÇONS Play homie” line would be added. Not to put any words in Kanye Westâ€s mouth, but we have proof that the shoe fits.

Stay tuned for more from the CDG x Nike universe at SoleSavy, as we expect more from Kawakubo and her revolutionary ways.