The intersection between fashion and music has resulted in some fascinating crossovers throughout history. Whether it be in the form of elaborative marketing campaigns or the high-profile sneaker collaborations we’ve grown so accustomed to recently, fashion brands have always sought to marry the two worlds together and fandoms have been more than happy to support their favorite artists.
However, few musicians can claim to have as reverent and dedicated a fanbase as California-based psychedelic rock band the Grateful Dead, a fact that was not lost on the forward-thinking design team behind Nike SB.
From the band’s inception in 1965 to their eventual dissolution in 1996 following the death of frontman Jerry Garcia, the Grateful Dead amassed a fanbase like no other. In the studio, they were one thing, while on stage they were a different beast altogether, and fans knew this. Over their career, the Dead released 13 studio albums and over 200 live albums cultivated from decades of almost non-stop touring.
Their shows were always filled with sprawling, improvisatory renditions of their catalog, transforming their tightly-knit, ~5-minute folk-rock tunes into impressive 20+ minute jams. These concerts could stretch upwards of 5 hours long, each played to sold-out crowds more than happy to soak it all in each time.
The most hardcore of these fans, the self-proclaimed “Dead Heads,” would spend weeks, months, and sometimes years of their lives around the band’s live touring schedule. Dead Heads would follow the band as they toured North America or Europe, often recording bootleg tapes of the shows and distributing them amongst a growing, word-of-mouth group of collectors and casual fans alike.
Rather than take a strict anti-piracy stance, the band encouraged its fans to express their love of the art however they saw fit. Whether it be through this thriving bootleg culture, recreational drug use, or purchasing official merch, the Dead were happy if their fans were happy. And now, a new wave of fans has been presented to the band. Coinciding with the band’s pseudo-revival in 2015 Dead & Co. with high-profile bandmates like John Mayer, a new generation of potential listeners will get the opportunity to experience the band in the present day.
Last year’s Grateful Dead x Nike SB Dunk Low pack based on the band’s iconic Marching Bears mascot couldn’t have come at a better time, landing itself a spot on many Sneaker of the Year lists in 2020. The timing couldn’t have been better either with more people than ever adding vintage tees and tie-dye to their wardrobes. Released exclusively via skate shops, the SNKRS app, and the band’s own website, the Grateful Dead x Nike SB Dunk Low “Marching Bear” pack was surely one of the largest pushes for the band since their 60s-80s hey-days.
Here, Nike SB imbued modern sneakerhead culture with the freewheeling spirit of 20th-century Grateful Dead worship, appealing to an entirely new generation of potential listeners. One such creative who has fully embraced this intersection between design, fashion, and the Dead’s particular brand of psychedelia is Mike Gracie and his Dead Wings brand.
You may have come across some of Gracie’s designs on your timeline in recent months like this bootleg Reebok x Philadelphia 76ers capsule, or these Air Jordan Skull-Wings logo tees. The apparel produced by Dead Wings is designed and printed by Gracie in limited supply and sold exclusively via his Instagram and independent retailers like Dude Inn. The parallels between Gracie’s bootlegs and the Dead Head culture of the past are apparent. We recently got the chance to discuss the Dead Wings project with Gracie, touching on his inspirations, his love of the band, and the impact of Nike SB’s Dunk Low pack.
What inspired you to begin making these GD bootlegs based on Nike/Jordan Brand/Reebok designs?
The Dead Wings concept came from the Jerry Garcia quote, “You do not merely want to be considered the best of the best. You want to be considered the only ones that do what you do.” I was working on different Jerry/MJ mash-ups, and I did the Wings/SYF as a secondary mark. I circulated with the crew and the general consensus was ‘holy shit’.
The story of Peter Moore designing the wings logo has always been a favorite. Stanley/Thomas iconic SYF is something that I keep different versions of on my clipboard. I was excited to cast this bootleg into the ether of lot tees.
Did you have a background in designing clothes before this project?
Before I started my own little atelier for Dead Wings I did (and still do) execute a lot of merch ideation and production in the stand-up space. My agency, Squatch Creative, works closely with print-house Other Industries to tackle tour projects for Hannibal Buress, John Mulaney, and Pete Davidson. I’ve been fortunate to absorb best practices for every type of print process, embroidery, cut & sew, etc over the past 10 years.
Have you always been a longtime Dead Head?
I’ve listened to The Dead since I was in HS. I credit my Uncle Joe for the introduction. If I’m being honest, I was more actively listening to Phish, Beasties + Elvis Costello in my youth. But never turned down a chance to see RatDog, Furthur, or some iteration of the OG lineup.
Where does your love of MJ, Jordan Brand, and/or Nike stem from?
My first pair of Jordan’s was sixth grade — the Flu Game 12’s. It’s really been all AJ/Nike since then. Now in my 30’s, I have a deep respect for how the Jumpman brand has spidered into all sports — stock car racing, golf, etc. I love how Michael has tied his interests post-retirement into the brand with minimum effort. 23XI Racing is a partnership I’ve enjoyed observing as a non-Nike roll-out and I’m excited to watch it evolve.
Do you actively think about 20th-century GD bootleg culture (live tapes, fan merch) when placing your current work out there or do you see this as being inspired separately from that older tradition?
100% think about GD bootleg culture daily — using IG to trade tapes, lot tees, jewelry. I mix in collaborations with other staunch Dead-Heads alongside my general releases (@allmyhatsaredead, @looks_legitimate, @dudeinn, @lazylightningdyes). I believe this new school of designers/makers stems directly from that older tradition. All those guys have their own back-story when it comes to being introduced to GD (bootleg) culture. That’s something I’m interested in — when you ‘got on the bus’ is a motif I gravitate towards.
For me, it’s important to collect ephemera and other physical material relating to Dead iconography. A lot of items for the exact purpose of creating a perfect bootleg replica.
Do you think you need to be a fan of an artist’s work to be into their official (or unofficial merch)? Do you need to be a fan of Nike or Jordan to wear your stuff proudly? What do you think separates your work from other similar creatives?
I don’t think you need to be a fan of the Dead or Jumpman to rock my gear. It certainly helps if you hope to connect with other Heads over a mutual admiration for the design. But 100% is not a prerequisite to buy these pieces.
Not much separates me from a sea of bootleggers on the lot. I’d hope though, that I’ve put in the research & that my designs are unique to the landscape.
What do you think about the Grateful Dead x Nike SB Dunk Lows from last year? Did they nail the tribute to the Marching Bears? Did it seem authentic to yourself and other Dead Heads?
I think Nike SB assembled the best crew of creative Dead Heads for that project. It’s a damn shame that most of those people have moved on from SB. But yes, it was authentic, in my opinion, they captured lightning in a bottle on that release. I own a pair; I consider myself a mild-sneakerhead. I never miss the opportunity to swap a box of my work for a pair of kicks.
What sort of things do you want to see done from the official Dead & Co. / GD brand moving forward? What sort of stuff can we expect from you in the future?
Oof. Maybe less Chinatown Market releases? I’m all for obscure collaborations, but the phrase ‘beating a dead horse’ comes to mind. I’d love to consult on a Jumpman/Dead collaboration. I’ve got a deck prepared for if that call ever comes in. I’m putting together a sample of my own Jordan 1’s for fun. In January, I made samples of home/away Dead Wings basketball jerseys. Hopefully, those will be released by the end of the summer.
Finally, have you seen the band live and what is your favorite GD recording? (Huge fan of “Live/Dead” and “Europe ’72” myself)
I’m a Philly guy, “9/21/72 at The Spectrum” is one that I always throw on when I’m working. I’m 36 and was only 9 when Jerry passed — that being said though, I never pass up the opportunity to see any of the living members play when the opportunity arises. I’ll be on the lot for the majority of Dead & Co’s northeast shows.