We are living in the peak of collabs — unlikely partners in Fortnite and Balenciaga just did a collection together, and Instant Pot is trying to put Rhude in my kitchen? Of course, Supreme still does a signature collaboration every season, on top of all the other ones that they already have going on. Hell, Nike has gotten to the point where they’ve introduced a third collaborator in the fray because clearly one collaborator was just not cutting it anymore. That’s not to say that it’s a bad thing, not all collaborations are created equal after all.
Uniqlo can seem like your run-of-the-mill mall brand at first glance. LifeWear – that’s the word they use to describe their products. It’s accurate as there are always some elements of functionality to most of their offerings. I’m not talking about the same “functionality” that jawns enthusiasts usually attribute to an unnecessary number of pockets; Uniqlo’s clothes are practical and simple, they don’t get in the way of daily life. But that doesn’t necessarily make them cool, and so much of getting dressed these days, especially in the spaces we occupy, is about looking, feeling, and being cool. In a way, that’s to be expected, especially when looking back at their LifeWear ethos.
That’s where collaborations come in.
On one end, you’re introducing a new brand to your audience, and on the other, there’s a whole new audience to be unlocked as well. So much of brand collaborations have been about audience sharing, but we’ve reached a spot where collaborations just happen for the sake of collaboration, for the sake of throwing another name on a project or collection. But what exactly makes a collaboration successful these days? Well, I’d argue it’s a combination of the following: the product itself is still paramount, but other elements such as story-telling still need to be considered. Of course, appealing to both audiences also needs to happen, and it’s one of the harder notes to hit when bringing in another label.
Uniqlo U by Christophe Lemaire (Image via Uniqlo)
We’ve all been privy to New Balance’s meteoric rise from the go-to shoe for dads to the go-to shoe for moodboard and Instagram influencer types, perfectly encapsulated by one of their ad, “Worn by supermodels in London and dads in Ohio.” It’s no secret that a collaboration-heavy approach was much to thank for their success. Uniqlo has quietly been doing the same, and they have been for quite some time. While they may not be the tsunami-sized waves New Balance has been making, the constant stream of ripples from their collaborations have pushed them to a different level from their contemporaries.
There aren’t too many brands in their space who can claim projects with the likes of Jil Sander, Christophe Lemaire, JW Anderson, Engineered Garments, Undercover, and more. That doesn’t even cover the hundreds of rotating collaborators they have for UT, their specialized collection of graphic-heavy items.
Uniqlo x Engineered Garments (Image via Uniqlo)
They’ve amassed these collaborators, and in turn, have elevated their brand to be as covetable as even the high-fashion names they work with. Pieces from the collections sell out like they’re another colorway of Dunk Lows, and even run up lines during in-store drops. In what is perhaps their most impressive feat, they’ve managed to keep appealing to both sides. Constantly introducing new brands to their core audience, and also getting the interest of those same brand’s consumers.
The premise for all their collaborations is pretty simple — they take the collaborator’s ethos and essence and leverage their massive network that includes production and logistics to deliver products at far more accessible prices. Sounds simple right? Well, the most important piece is the collaborator not losing that ethos and essence in the process.
Looking at the current lineup of collaborations for the season, it’s easy to see that they’ve done just that. Bringing on board a new collaborator in White Mountaineering, the pieces are a great extension of the current Uniqlo offering.
Uniqlo x White Mountaineering (Image via Uniqlo)
They’re not just watered-down versions of White Mountaineering, rather, they’re a glimpse into the world that the outdoors brand presents. The same can be said for the recurring collaborators in Christophe Lemaire and Jil Sander — both are an exploration of more contemporary and high-end silhouettes, with the fabrics that were made available to them by Uniqlo.
Uniqlo x +J by Jil Sander (Images via Uniqlo)
The budget-conscious consumer is introduced to what would normally be inaccessible pieces, and on the other hand, even a ‘luxury’ customer can find value in a brand they would otherwise dismiss. It’s this exact give-and-take that Uniqlo has found the secret sauce for, their je ne sais quoi if you will.
And they’ve shown the ability to do it over and over, no matter the collaborator that they bring in.
The landscape of collaborations is not changing anytime soon, even if we’re living at its peak, that doesn’t mean it won’t continue to reach new heights. There were probably 20 collaborations that just got signed in the time that it took you to read this.
With how crowded the space has become, there’s only so much room for mediocrity, and in the end, we as the consumers win when there are good collaborations. GAP is just barely scratching the surface with their partnership with Yeezy, and it’ll likely be successful just based on Kanye’s involvement alone. That collaboration is not that far off from Uniqlo as you think.
At the end of the day, they’re just trying to make good clothes that are accessible to everyone.