First launched in 1984, the ZX has deep roots in the adidas archive. From being one of the brand’s earliest implementations of their decades-old Torsion arch support system to its eventual 4D upgrades and collaborative streak, adidas has never ceased to support this shoe in one way or another. Like the best things in sneaker culture, this shoe’s success came as a result of the people co-opting it for their individual needs. In this case, the ZX found unexpected success as a runner turned rave shoe. During the Second Summer of Love, the aforementioned Torsion system plus SoftCell cushioning made the ZX series a perfect addition to the stylish, yet comfort-conscious uniforms of ravers throughout Europe. Holding up just as well on the dance floor as they did on the trail, adidas struck gold with the silhouette’s universal appeal.
In 2008, adidas launched a hefty ZX collection with twenty-six of the brand’s closest collaborators, with each entry based on a different letter of the alphabet. Fast forward to today, nearly 40 years since the shoe’s debut, and the adidas A-ZX campaign returns. 26 shoes released over the course of 2020 and early 2021, each one focused on either unique colorblocking, creative storytelling, or, in the case of the best colorways, a perfect synthesis of both. Created in collaboration with fellow adidas stan and SoleSavy Community Leader Braeden Stewart, here is our ranked list of the entire A-ZX collection. What’s your #1 pick?
26. (ZX): Reebok ZX Pump Fury
Let’s get this one out of the way first. The Reebok ZX Pump Fury was definitely the worst entry in the entire A-ZX series. Since Reebok is still owned by adidas, it made some sense at the time but has since aged quite poorly considering the upcoming sale of the brand. It’s a colorway that pays homage to the OG adidas ZX 8000 and the OG Reebok InstaPump Fury but ends up being far too brash for the majority of people. It’s all uphill from here.
25. (G): ZX 8000 Golf
Don’t get us wrong. Despite its placement on the list, this colorway was a solid entry. Largely inoffensive, the touches of blue and red add some welcome flair to the otherwise inoffensive shoe. However, being pigeonholed as an adidas Golf shoe just makes it far too niche to have the kind of lasting appeal other entries in the series have.
24. (P): ZX 1000 PamPam
The first collaborative entry on the list, the PamPam x adidas ZX 1000 does a lot with very little. PamPam is a London-based women’s boutique, who’s unique curation and style sets the shop apart from many of its peers. That energy is on full display here, with subtle hits of cheetah prints giving the pink/black/lavender colorway some sass. Cheetah print is hard to pull off, but if it fits your personal style, this PamPam collab is probably perfect for you.
23. (J): ZX 6000 Juventus
Created in collaboration with the Juventus Football Club, this is a great example of a shoe crafted with a specific community in mind that also has wider appeal. Leaning as heavily as possible into adidas’ soccer roots without just straight up dropping a new cleat, the shoe’s simple, two-toned makeup replicates the look of Juventus’ uniforms all in a premium package.
22. (T): ZX 5000 Torsion
A homage to the Three Stripes’ revolutionary Torsion tech, the eponymous colorway is a great concept but a little lackluster on the execution. While triple-black or triple-white colorways are nothing new, triple-yellow is a rare sight. Most interestingly however is the Kevlar upper. Yes, Kevlar. The same material you find on bullet-proof vests and racing sails, now in sneaker form. No one asked for this, but it’s a cool concept.
21. (F): ZX 8000 Frozen Lemonade
As we’ve covered in the past, sneaker enthusiasts have a soft spot for food-related sneakers so the ZX 8000 Frozen Lemonade is in welcome company. Inspired by the drink itself, this summer-ready colorway dons crisp yellow textile overlays alongside bright green accenting. While a great colorway, the shoe’s makeup doesn’t necessarily scream “Frozen Lemonade” specifically. This could have very well been a GR colorway, separate from the A – ZX pack.
20. (I): ZX 8000 Irak
While nowhere near as industrial as an all-Kevlar upper, this all-conditions equipped ZX 8000 from NY-based graffiti collective IRAK is an example of great storytelling through design. With a waterproof Gore-Tex upper in two unique colorways, the kicks embody the energy of IRAK’s street art and their rebellious, street-smart attitude. Bright, colorful makeup and an upper equipped for the elements, this is the first great collaboration on the list and a must for any IRAK ‘heads out there.
19. (R): ZX 1000C Retro
The ZX 1000C marks the first retro of the OG ZX1000 colorway to ever release. Updated materials and construction are implemented without sacrificing any of the original colorway’s classic charm. While not as experimental as some of the higher-ranked offerings on this list, the ZX 1000C Retro is a welcomed return to form. Never forget the classics.
18. (A): ZX 8000 atmos “G-SNK 3”
On the complete opposite side of the spectrum, this atmos collab is one of, if not, the wildest shoes in the whole collection. While not very wearable in day-to-day outfits (if you can rock it though, more power to you), the shoe continues to fascinate people almost a year since its launch. Tan, faux fur is matched with a glow in the dark, neon green, snakeskin leather making this shoe the worst choice for formal events and the perfect pick for late-night mischief.
17. (K): ZX 10000 The Simpsons “Krusty Burger”
While this shoe doesn’t scream the Simpsons like some of adidas previous collaborations with the world-renowned cartoon, the shoe is a genuine collector’s item. Instead of just adding small graphics with references to the shoe, the kicks go a little more subtle and use colorblocking to emulate the shape of the titular burger. On the heel, there’s some shaggy terry cotton in aqua-green as a further nod to the krazy clown.
16. (W): ZX 8000 Sean Wotherspoon “SuperEarth”
PatPatchwork is all the rage in 2021 and Sean Wotherspoon’s latest take on it is a nice sight. Created with recycled materials throughout the shoe, Wotherspoon’s plant-based lifestyle and environmentalism meshes really well with the vintage-inspired, patchwork style that is now trademark signs of an SW footwear collaboration. While the loose threads and abstract patterning might not be for everyone, this is one of the better of Wotherspoon’s post-Nike collabs.
15. (C): ZX 9000 Concepts
We can’t say enough good things about the great folks at Concepts. As their name suggests, the Boston-based brand/boutique reigns supreme in the realm of concept products and ace storytelling. Taking its inspiration from their city’s most famous sporting event, the annual Boston Marathon, this take on the ZX 9000 is inspired by the space blankets given to contestants at the end of a marathon. If you don’t mind the look of what is essentially tinfoil on your feet, the shoe’s upper is unlike anything we’ve ever seen. Check out SoleSavy’s list of the top 10 Concepts sneaker collabs here.
14. (L): ZX 8000 Lego
Surprisingly wearable despite the Lego theme, the official Lego x adidas ZX 8000 is a fascinating piece of wearable fandom. The classic red/white Lego logos on the tongue tags and overlays that mimic the look of Lego blocks really make this seem like it’s a toy in itself. This shoe sadly loses some points based on the sheer fact that you cannot attach Lego pieces to the studs on the shoe. It’s truly heartbreaking and the only real blemish on an otherwise great collab.
13. (N): ZX 5000 National Park Foundation “Joshua Tree”
With a similar makeup to the Deadhype and HeyTea entries, this officially sanctioned collaboration with the National Park Foundation looks to nature for its inspiration. More specifically, the sunset hues of the desert sky in Joshua Tree National Park inform the kick’s makeup. While an abrasion-proof Cordura upper frames these as trail shoes, a real hiker’s outsole would have made these really stand out.
12. (X) ZX 6000 – XZ 0006 X-Ray Inside Out
The name is a mouthful but the look is on another level. Here we have another adidas offering that shows the design team isn’t afraid to drop an experimental in-line colorway. The translucent synthetic paneling shows all the different materials that go inside a pair of ZXs. Tongue tags are inverted, exposed stitching is used throughout, and textiles are sewn inside out. The glossy synthetic upper brings to mind the Craig Green x adidas Rivalry Low who double-layered look achieved much of the same effect.
11. (Y): ZX 9000 YCTN
The adidas ZX 9000 Yucatan (YCTN) is all about the details. Black suede and leather are applied beautifully in this moccasin-inspired take on a classic runner. White embroidery is applied to the toebox to mimic the handmade sewing seen on traditional moccasins. The left foot’s white stitching is done in a series of “Z” shapes and the right in an “X” pattern. Additional white threading can be found on the heel and side panels and a premium terry cotton sockliner adds some extra comfort and a sense of luxury to the kicks too.
10. (H): ZX 7000 HeyTea
For the uninitiated, HeyTea is a Chinese tea chain with over 260 stores throughout the country famous for its concept stores, huge lineups, and influential social media presence. Despite HeyTea having no international franchises, the ZX 7000 collaboration was still released, and promptly sold out, at select retailers worldwide. If not for the extra push as part of the A-ZX collection, this shoe may have not sold out. Which would have been a shame considering HeyTea’s knack for concept stores translated really well to footwear due to the shoe’s unique overlays and great color blocking.
9. (S): ZX 8000 Superstar
Another example of adidas’ inline designers taking inspiration from its visionary collaborators Craig Green and Raf Simons. Translucent ZX overlays reveal the makeup of a Superstar underneath, clamshell toebox and all. A dyed “vintage” style midsole might be a few shades too yellow for some but it does help bring home the idea of two adidas artifacts being molded together.
8. (B): ZX 8000 BAPE x UNDFTD
Undoubtedly the drop with the most hype and star power behind it, BAPE and UNDFTD apply both of their signature aesthetics to each colorway. BAPE’s duck camo adorns the mesh underlays while UNDFTD’s logo is embroidered on the heel. If you’re not into BAPE’s classic look then this probably won’t mean much, but if you are a fan of NIGO’s iconic pattern, this among the most interesting BAPE footwear collabs in a minute. The UNDFTD co-sign adds the extra “cool” factor to boot without going overkill.
7. (U): ZX 5000 University of Miami “The U”
This summer-ready collab is another IYKYK colorway that is equally viable for fans of The U or fans of clean, white sneakers alike. The kicks are on-brand for the University’s “U” logo, while not being all in your face with those green and orange chrome heels. A frosted white outsole and further Miami-themed hits on the tongue complete the look.
6. (E): ZX 0000 Evolution
This pair has a great story to it and is evidence of adidas’ understanding and dedication to their history. The shoe is actually based on a 30-year-old, unreleased hybrid of the ZX and EQT silhouettes. With its design finally revisited and completed, the shoe boasts the best aspects of both of these classic silhouettes. With a colorway that just screams 80s, the bright blue and pink tones across a white suede base put greater emphasis on the individual, spliced-together pieces of the shoe. Released on May 5th, 2021, this was the final drop of the A-ZX collection, ending the project on a mixture of the past and the future.
5. (D): ZX 8000 Deadhype
A very underrated piece from the collection and our pick for the #5 spot, the ZX 8000 from Berlin-based audiovisual collection deadHYPE were designed to be worn to shreds. Sturdy canvas paneling is juxtaposed with soft purple/lavender tones allowing the shoe to age nicely without resorting to simple triple-white. It’s also one of the rare adidas shoes to feature no Three Stripes branding. Regarding the shoe’s design, deadHYPE founder Bernard Koomson told HighSnobiety:
“We wanted to have a sneaker that’s functional. It would be great if there’s a sneaker for 120 Euros that you could style with, you could use as studio shoes, you could paint, etc. The deadHYPE sneaker is made of canvas and leather. Leather keeps a great structure and the way it ages can give a shoe a second life, like a pair of Doc Martens or Clark’s.”
4. (M): ZX 10000 Meissen
In the #4 spot, we have a collaboration between a fellow German-based brand, Messein. As Europe’s oldest porcelain manufacturer, this collaboration is consistent with the high bar for quality that has kept Meissen around for over 300 years. Emulating the look of their intricately detailed ceramics, the ZX 10000 has some transparent Three Stripes branding with floral graphics laid across the smooth leather upper. Rather than outsource the work overseas, adidas kept the production of the Messein ZX 10000 to their Scheinfeld, Germany factory.
3. (O): ZX 8500 Overkill
Another partnership with a German institution, the ZX 8500 from German boutique Overkill stays true to its name. A hybrid of the ZX 8000 and 9000 silhouettes, this shoe is – as of this publishing – the only ZX 8500 model from adidas. Inspired by the graffiti culture, the shoe comes in an array of fluorescent pink, blue, purple, and green panels throughout. Uniform “OVERKILL” text is embroidered on the lateral toebox in black thread providing deep contrast to the graffiti tag style “O K” embroidered on the tongue tags. The shoe also comes with a removable, semi-transparent shroud intended to protect your kicks from spray paint during a graffiti sesh. “OK” tags in fluorescent green tease at the wild energy underneath the black, rip-stop cover.
2. (Q): ZX 8000 HighSnobeity Qualität
Like the best entries on his list, premium materials can take an otherwise standard-looking sneaker up to a whole other level. That’s very much the case with Highsnobeity’s ZX 8000 Qualität, a shoe that combines premium leather overlays with mesh paneling in an array of versatile, elegant tones. Rather than go for a wilder 80s colorway as was the norm with the OG ZX models in the 80s, the Qualität (German for “quality”) of the shoe is the real main focus here. By using neutral tones, the focus is moved towards the premium presentation of its materials. As a publication focused on the latest and greatest in the realms of fashion and culture at large, it’s clear to see that the company put its best foot forward when deciding to make a timeless, fashion-forward piece of footwear, rather than follow trends.
1. (V): ZX 5000 Vieux Lyon
The premium materials and masterful execution of the adidas ZX 5000 “Vieux Lyon” made this a shoo-in for our #1 pick. The shoe is an homage to the district of Vieux Lyon, France, the birthplace of jacquard fabric, from which the shoe’s entire upper is made from. Invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1804, the fabric’s unique look is achieved by weaving the pattern directly into the textile rather than printed afterward. This was done through an intricate loom system controlled via replaceable punchcards. Not only was the fabric stunning but the punchcard process is often heralded as one of the earliest developments in what would eventually become computer programming.
Purple jacquard outfits the heel of the shoe while grey/silver is used for the toebox. Matching purple/grey/pink Three Stripes branding is weaved onto the side panels of the shoe with further details such as a black leather sock liner and the French flag accents on the outsole adding a further layer of Parisian luxury. These were the crown jewel of the A-ZX collection and make a fine addition to any fan of premium sneakers.
All images via adidas