Basketcase’s long-anticipated first retail sneaker release with New Balance is here.
Launched in 2018, Basketcase was Zach Kinninger’s opportunity to blend different influences and styles into the world of streetwear. Kinninger’s original vision of upcycling vintage items and bringing new life to them via tattoo stencil art has evolved into one of the most beloved labels from California.
The brand’s vintage feel, combined with on-trend cuts and style, has kept Basketcase at the forefront of conversations about the best imprints in the world of American streetwear. The fanbase the label has cultivated is as loyal as they come, and they are always ready for a new drop or for an opportunity to visit one of Basketcase’s beloved pop-up events. In a sense, the brand’s name truly feels like a tongue-in-cheek commentary on style and fashion.
Though being called a basketcase is technically an insult, the brand’s multifaceted approach to design has created a rich and diverse fan base. That not only shows how strong Basketcase’s referencing is through their designs, but it also shows how sustainable the brand has become. In a single scroll through their tagged photos on Instagram, you can find: their flannels paired with combat boots, their zip-up hoodies styled with the trendiest of mesh-runners, and even their popular jeans complemented by some of the most iconic of vintage grails. The melting pot of aesthetics, frankly, should be something to be proud of.
The notion that ‘streetwear is dead‘ has become a popular talking point on fashion social media. That statement, truthfully, cannot feel further from the truth when you consider the way Basketcase can deliver some of the best releases of the year- all the while cultivating an audience more diverse than a certain John Hughes-directed movie.
The project that began in Kinninger’s dorm room has evolved into frequent drops, pop-ups, a studio store, a collaboration with the hottest Band of 2025, and now, a retail collaboration with New Balance.
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New Balance and Basketcase are no strangers. In the summer of 2024, New Balance tapped Basketcase for an energetic campaign on the New Balance 1906ad. The connection, naturally, broke the necks of fans throughout the sneaker space. Not technically known for a connection to the world of sneakers, Basketcase’s custom take on the 1906 felt bold, fresh, and was a welcome addition to their already impressive catalog.
That sneaker would not see a retail release, and that pattern continued for a few more projects between Basketcase and New Balance. That will officially change this week, though.
The 204L has seen several major cosigns by frequent New Balance collaborators. In perfect Basketcase fashion, though, their upcoming ‘Pine Valley’ colorway stands out from the rest by authentically tapping into vintage American fashion.
Though the brand previously shared a 240L during Paris Fashion Week, the ‘Pine Valley’ colorway evokes the feelings of “running home” for Zach Kinninger. Often known for loud graphics and bold prints, the sneaker takes a more subtle approach. This, of course, is intentional.
Though Basketcase’s popularity has catapulted the brand into a staple for your favorite rapper, their first retail collaborative release with New Balance reflects on the past. Whether it is Kinninger’s quiet upbringing being reflected through rich, dark brown, or the vintage hiking boot-like lacing system, the sneaker isn’t shy when referencing the details that have made Basketcase so beloved. The sneaker’s alternative rope laces, too, are a nod to hiking boots. All the while, Basketcase’s beloved flannels are referenced on the sneaker’s insoles, and the brand’s popular ballerina motif hides away on the medial side of the shoe as a nice easter egg.
In a sense, the ‘Pine Valley’ 204L is a bit of Basketcase’s greatest hits. The vintage-inspired lacing system and laces encapsulate just how great Basketcase is at referencing vintage workwear. The deep brown nubuck matches the brand’s grunge references that have made the brand so loved by people of all tastes. And the fuzzy blue laces tie it all together in a way that is as bold as a lot of Basketcase’s designs.
New Balance has spent the better part of the 2020s capturing not only the attention of sneakerheads but also connecting with the best creatives in the world of fashion. Basketcase feels like the brand’s next big-hitter. Not only because of how popular the label is, but because they are constantly pushing their design language to the next level. All the while, staying truthful to the references that got them here.
It is Basketcase’s authentic style and love for the game that got them to the party. And it is that same hunger that will shortly make them New Balance’s strongest collaborative partner.
The Basketcase x New Balance 204L ‘Pine Valley’ releases this Friday, December 12th, via their online store. A wider release will follow via New Balance boutiques on December 19th.
